Rohit Bal: The master of opulent silhouettes and bold Indian motifs who redefined couture

On November 1, 2024, Indian fashion bid farewell to one of its most iconic and audacious figures, Rohit Bal, who passed away at 63 after battling a heart ailment. Known for his dramatic silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and imaginative designs, Bal was an original—a designer unafraid to take risks and challenge norms in his pursuit of beauty. Just weeks before his passing, he took his final bow with a flourish at FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week, presenting his last collection, Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe, and leaving a lasting imprint on the fashion world.

Rohit Bal's history

Bal, born in Srinagar, was one of the first Indian designers to achieve both national and international acclaim. A graduate of St. Stephen's College and the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in Delhi, he launched his label in 1986, bringing an unprecedented level of craftsmanship and elegance to Indian couture. His creations, often grounded in whites, off-whites, golds, and blacks, displayed bold lotus motifs and lush textures in fabrics like silk and velvet. With a signature blend of grandeur and tradition, Bal’s designs appealed to those who loved opulence and artistry.

Rohit Bal's signature style

Designer Rohit Bal’s signature style is all about opulence, elegance, and rich storytelling through design. Known for blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern silhouettes, he often incorporates luxurious fabrics, intricate embroideries, and dramatic flair. His work frequently features elements of nature—like lotus motifs, peacocks, and floral patterns—crafted with rich textures and intricate details.

Bal’s colour palette leans towards deep hues and royal tones, like rich reds, regal blues, and striking blacks, complemented by gold embroidery and zari work. His Kashmiri-inspired embroidery is iconic, especially seen in his use of velvet, brocade, and detailed threadwork that evokes an old-world charm with a contemporary twist.?

Another trademark is his use of voluminous silhouettes in lehengas, anarkalis, and gowns, giving a regal yet graceful look. Rohit Bal also frequently employs asymmetrical cuts, making his designs stand out with an artistic, almost architectural aesthetic that’s both bold and timeless.

Rohit Bal significance in the fashion industry

Bal’s influence spanned continents and generations. International celebrities like Uma Thurman, Naomi Campbell, Pamela Anderson, and Cindy Crawford wore his creations, furthering his global appeal. In India, he inspired countless emerging designers, including Gaurav Gupta, who recalls Bal as a symbol of courage and authenticity. Bal’s openness about his own bisexuality in the 2000s was a beacon of hope for many young designers in a conservative society, cementing his role as a pioneer in the industry and a role model for creatives navigating the challenges of self-expression.

At his final show, Bal stayed true to his spirit, choosing ’90s supermodel Sheetal Mallar to open the runway and Ananya Panday to close, while models walked to music by Kate Bush and Madonna.