How To Eat Like An Indian Abroad - Top 10 London Restaurants That Serve Scrumptious 'Desi' Food
As told by Sukhi Singh.
Indians want Indian food wherever they go. Well, at least all my family and friends do. We recently went on a family holiday to the Algarve and one of the top priorities was to find the best Indian restaurants in the area to dine. With this in mind, I thought it might be helpful if I did the same for anyone coming to England. However, statistics show there were 9,500 Indian restaurants in England in 2015, so even with all the will and time in the world, to dine and review each restaurant would be a near impossible task for me to achieve.
I quickly decided I had to narrow my search down. I opted for London, as I have recently been working there frequently and have seen it become the new Shimla for natives to retire to in the sweltering heat of the Indian summer, so I would make it my duty to painstakingly dine in restaurants in the big city to ensure you know exactly where to go when visiting there.
Before starting my expedition to conquer Indian food in the capital I had a daunting task of how to further narrow thousands of restaurants down to ones I would actually like to try. All fine dining? Street food? Which region? What price range? This task I had taken on was giving me sleepless nights.
After much thought, I had a good idea of where I wanted to go and which different styles of food I wanted to try, so I packed my bags, notebook and Mont Blanc and set off to explore the city and what it had to offer.
I didn＊t want to write a food guide; I just wanted to share my experiences at certain restaurants I＊d visited. I＊m not able to say that any of these restaurants are my favourites as I haven't dined at every Indian restaurant in London, but each one stood out for different reasons.
1. Kolkati
Where: West Yard, Camden Lock Place, London, NW1 8AF
Why you should eat here: Camden market looked like a foodie＊s funfair. It＊s enveloped by the aroma of food cooking from all directions and is full of people. Camden market is a place bustling with multiculturalism and everyone is oblivious to one another as they allow the smell of food to guide them to their next food fix.
We all love a good kati roll, especially if you＊ve been to Nazim＊s in Kolkata or Delhi. The British were partial to it in the days of the Raj and it is becoming ever such a popular street food.
Kolkati didn＊t disappoint, serving small chunks of chicken thighs coated in a flavoursome masala, wrapped snuggly in a ghee-coated egg paratha. I opted for additional green chillies with a generous squeeze of tamarind and date ketchup, sweet pickled pink onions, mint yoghurt and a squeeze of fresh lime, so make sure you get an extra napkin or two. If I wasn＊t planning on eating somewhere else that afternoon I would have definitely ordered another, as they were simply delicious. A paneer version is also available and you can have the paratha with or without egg. Live a little and go all in 每 you won＊t be disappointed.
Walking through the market on my way out I came across another Indian food pit stop. In fact it was Punjabi food, and everyone knows how partial I am to a bit of Punjabi cuisine.
2. Sonita's Healthy Indian Cooking
Where: Camden Market Locks, London, NW1 8AF
Why you should eat here: Sonita＊s Healthy Indian Cooking had a real sense of authentic homemade food about it. You get a choice of two sizes of container and a selection of four curries (chicken curry, lamb & aubergine, chickpea & spinach and yellow dal), from which you pick three. These are layered on a base of plain basmati rice in your chosen container, after which you then have the option of adding salad, yoghurt, mango chutney or hot pickle.
My favourite was the lamb and aubergine curry and is something I had never tried. I was really impressed; it＊s good wholesome food cooked similarly to how you would at home. The rice was soft and fluffy and each curry tasted good individually. Each has its own way of cooking and you can taste the quality through the ingredients used.
3. Punjab
Where: Seven Dials London, 80 Neal Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9PA
Why you should eat here: Established in the 1940s, this restaurant was one of the first I put on my list of places to visit. With the diversification of Indian food I presumed this restaurant would still have the flavour of Punjab and India embedded in it.
Inside, the restaurant celebrates Punjab in a patriotic manner. The interior is very shabby-chic with framed photographs of Punjabi maharaja and maharanis. Being inquisitive we all had a good time googling the names of the rulers and putting a story behind the faces.
The food is very traditional too; it was quite reminiscent of the food we used to eat in restaurants growing up. For starters we had tandoori chicken and Amritsari fish. The tandoori chicken was half a chicken on the bone served with a yoghurt and mint sauce. The chicken was freshly cooked in the tandoor, was moist and had a good balance of tandoori spices. The Amritsari fish pakoras were delicious 每 with a hint of dried mango powder and then dipped in the coriander and mint chutney they definitely impressed us. For the main course we seemed to be drawn to some of the dishes written in bold on the menu. Granddad＊s dal was a winner all round; with red kidney beans it completely reminded me of dal I ate frequently at Punjabi roadside caf谷s. The achari murg (chicken) has a subtle flavour of pickle to it and was very tender. I would definitely recommend the bullet naan, which is a naan bejewelled with chopped green chillies and coriander.
I did feel the food could have been a little spicier and after speaking to the waiter it wouldn＊t have been an issue. I would say the food in general is on the mild side, so bump up the heat if you like it nice and spicy. I finished the meal with a creamy cup of masala chai and I was ready for a snooze.
On a side note, we couldn＊t book a table on Saturday night so we queued up with other hungry people. Although we didn＊t wait long, I did think it would be helpful to inform you.
4. The Kati Roll Company
Where: 24 Poland Street, London, W1F 8QL
Why you should eat here: I think the kati roll revolution is slowly happening. I didn＊t get enough of my first kati roll fix, so I decided to try yet another kati roll eatery. The Kati Roll Company is set in a side street but was full of young trendy Indians. The Indian accent was quite prominent, though I＊m not quite sure if this was a desired hangout at weekends?
With around 13 variations of kati rolls on the menu I＊m sure there are plenty to try. We chose the shrimp masala roll, chicken tikka roll and the unda shami roll. The shrimp masala was my favourite; consisting of grilled tiger shrimps in a coconut spicy masala, they really packed a punch of flavour. The butter sweet shrimps were freshly grilled, all wrapped snuggly in a paratha with chutney and sliced onions inside. The chicken tikka was tasty too, though it was lightly spiced so I felt I needed a side order of chutney to lift it. The unda shami roll was one that really stood out on the menu.
I would have never thought of adding a shami kebab to a kati roll but it worked. Nicely spiced shami kebabs wrapped in an egg-layered paratha was delicious and I would definitely recommend it. I also ordered the masala tea, which had a prominent flavour of ginger 每 great for the cold British weather.
5. Saravana Bhavan
Where: 403 Alexandra Avenue, Rayners Lane, Harrow, HA2 9SG
Why you should eat here: With a chain of restaurants throughout London I didn＊t feel I would allow this restaurant to be part of the central London food guide. I was sceptical, as going to a chain of restaurants usually means you receive factory-made food, usually just to fill your stomach when hungry and not somewhere you＊d visit frequently.
We arrived at a time when there was a queue of around twenty people waiting to get into the restaurant. My fellow diners offered to relocate to another restaurant but the queue of people intrigued me, so we stayed put. We didn＊t have to wait long; we gave our names to the waiter and, twenty minutes later, we were sat at our table ready to order. The decor is very plain with a glittery Ganesh on the wall and the room and tables are laid out similarly to a school canteen. (Carry on reading, it does get better.)
For starters we ordered the fried idly and chilly mushrooms. Small crispy idlies lightly dusted in the house masala were truly delicious, the kick from the chilies really adding depth to these miniaturised versions. I insist you try these. The chilli mushrooms were a perfect balance of Indo-Chinese flavours with a good hit of chillies. If you don＊t like things hot and spicy avoid this dish. I＊m not a huge fan of hot and spicy food but I felt the flavours were balanced appropriately with a big gulp of sweet lassi.
For the main course I ordered the paper roasted dosa, which came with four accompaniments: sambar (lentil soup), coconut chutney, coriander chutney and a hot tomato chutney. The dosa was a monstrous size, tasted freshly made, was paper thin and wasn＊t greasy as dosas can sometimes be. When dipped in the sambar and chutneys it was truly sublime, possibly one of the best dosas I＊ve had outside India
One of our fellow diners ordered the cholay and bhatura. The bhatura looked like a small planet 每 seriously, if you can manage to eat more than one of these then I salute you 每 all full of hot steam and sitting proudly on the plate, served with a delicious chickpea curry with whole spices and a delicate flavour of star anise running through this south Indian version of the traditional Punjabi dish.
We finished the meal with a masala tea and I really loved how it was served. It was brought out in a steel cup sat on a steel saucer, reminding me of how the staff at our farmhouse would drink their tea this way and how we would secretly imitate them without being caught by my grandma. All in all this isn＊t the most sophisticated restaurant in the world, but if you can get over the pretentiousness you will have a thoroughly enjoyable meal.
6. Dishoom
Where: 22 Kingsley Street, London, W1B5QP
Why you should eat here: I don＊t think many people visiting London wanting to try Indian food won＊t have Dishoom on their top ten list. With four locations in central London and another now open in Edinburgh, the restaurant group has really grown. Apparently each Dishoom has a different decor and theme within the restaurant.
We decided to skip the brunch menu and opted for lunch instead, having a cocktail whilst we waited. I tried the Chaijito, which really packed a punch of flavour. The waiter kindly brought over a bowl of far-far (puffed up multi-coloured Indian snacks with an assortment of chutneys [mint, tamarind and chilli]) and they were very reminiscent of being in India.
We ordered a range of dishes to share, which I thought worked really well. I was told to order the okra fries, which were coated in a crunchy light batter and a generous helping of dried mango powder, so I did and they were delicious. I could sit there drinking and eating snacks all day long.
The dishes that really stood out were chicken tikka, mani tikka and the Dishoom dal. One of my fellow diners is a diehard carnivore and he cleaned the bowl of dal with naan. The dal was cooked slowly and was delicious with an authentic flavour. The chicken tikka was certainly impressive 每 made using chicken thighs it was extremely succulent and delicate and came with a kachumbar salad garnish, which worked well. The mani tikka just melted in the mouth and had a light marinade that complemented the fish perfectly, not overpowering it at all.
I found Dishoom reasonably priced with a good selection on the menu, cooked and executed well with good service. I would like to go back to try the breakfast menu as that really caught my eye.
7. Chai-Ki
Where: Crossrail Place, London, E14 5AR
Why you should eat here: Situated in the financial district of London I can imagine this restaurant would be bustling with people at peak times Fortunately we planned it well and arrived for late lunch, which worked perfectly.
A well designed and chic-looking restaurant, Chai-Ki serves small tapas-style dishes 每 again, a new concept for Indian food but it really seems to work. We ordered chilli paneer, chicken wings, chicken tikka naan, masala chips and a malabar paratha. I really liked the Chai-Ki twist on the chilli paneer, being lightly battered and fried with iceberg lettuce, onions, pepper and sliced chillies and tossed in a light vinaigrette. It was a great spin on the traditional chilli paneer and worked so well with the lettuce. The chicken wings were sprinkled with a light coating and seemed to be roasted in the tandoor. They had a lovely light smoky flavour and were drizzled with a spicy sauce.
My favourite was the chicken tikka naan; soft naan bread dressed with chopped chicken tikka pieces, crisp salad and a scattering of fresh pomegranate seeds. It was thoroughly enjoyable. The masala chips were tossed in a unique blend of spices and complemented what we ordered. I would go again, but do remember that it＊s in the financial district so it＊ll be busy at peak working hours.
8. Talli Joe
Where: Seven Dials London, 152-156 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, WC2H 8HL
Why you should eat here: We came across Talli Joe unexpectedly, but having read the menu I really wanted to try it out. I＊d already picked most of the things I wanted to try before we even sat down. Before we get to the food though, the cocktail menu was amazing and I was really impressed by it. I tried a Talli Ho, which is a combination of whisky, beer syrup, lime, soda and orange bitters. It was really refreshing and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Back to the food. We ordered kale chaat, chicken malai tikka, devilled quail eggs and Amritsar machi, which I think is a new addition to the menu. The chicken malai tikka melted in the mouth and was delicately flavoured; the devilled eggs were very tasty and soft in the middle, wrapped in a spicy crabmeat scotch egg served with tarka mayo; and the Amritsari fish fillets were a joy to eat. The dish that blew me away, however, was the kale chaat. So many elements of flavours went into this and its combination of foamed sweet yoghurt, tempura batter-dipped kale, crispy potatoes, mint chutney and chaat masala is heaven on a plate.
9. Gymkhana London
Where: 42 Albermarle Street, Mayfair, London, W1s 4JH
Why you should eat here: Gymkhana is a place that has left an impression on my mind and stomach upon leaving London. I wouldn＊t say I was unexpectedly surprised, as there aren＊t many restaurants that I have dined at around the world that have blown me away but this is one that did. The ambience, the attention to detail and the service were all perfect. Walking into the restaurant I felt I had warped back into a time of the British Raj and being in a private club.
We booked for lunch and I was astonished at how reasonably priced it was. I started with a Mr Illya＊s billiards room punch (apparently, the name ＆punch＊ comes from the Indian word paanch which was brought over by the British). The cocktail was served in a silver tumbler on a silver tray, along with a mini grater with a piece of nutmeg to grate into the cocktail after every sip.
To begin with we had a trio of papadums, which included cassava and tapioca and were accompanied by a trio of dips that worked well. We then ordered the duck egg burji and aloo tikka chaat for starters. The burji was extremely creamy, had a good kick of heat from the chillies and had beautifully cooked pieces of lobster tail, served with a malabar paratha that was perfectly flaky and balanced the dish well. The aloo tikka chaat was equally delicious, with fresh pomegranate, soft and crunchy potatoes and a perfect addition of tamarind.
For the main course we had the goat keema and the tandoori chop. I was happy to see goat on the menu as it＊s a meat that really doesn＊t get used in England unless it＊s in ethnic cooking. It＊s refreshing to witness a restaurant thinking about sustainability and not always opting for the most expensive ingredients. The keema was topped with crispy fried, grated potatoes, served with toasted pav, chopped red onions, green chillies and a wedge of lime. The tandoori chop was perfectly succulent and had great depth of traditional tandoori flavour, the qurma sauce and chicken skin burg were both moreish and the plate was devoured. Both came with two side dishes of yellow dal adorned with a light tarka, potato sabzi made with baby potatoes and a basket of bread One thing I have to mention is the naan bread 每 they were like soft pillows of goodness and every mouthful brought a feeling of fulfilment and satisfaction.
I＊m not really a dessert person but after a couple of Mr Illya＊s billiards room punches I thought, ※what the hell and live a little.§ I ordered the fig and date kheer which was topped with chopped hazelnuts. The kheer was served cold and the first mouthful nearly brought a tear to my eye as it was so reminiscent to the kheer we had at our farmhouse in Punjab. It was unbelievable.
10. Vineet Bhatia London
Where: 10 Lincoln Street, Chelsea, London, SW3 2TS
Why you should eat here: I was in two minds whether to write about Vineet Bhatia＊s restaurant. What was holding me back was the fact that you＊re not so much going to his restaurant to eat a meal but to go on a food journey that will leave an impression on you for a long time. With this in mind I wanted to scream from the rooftops about my experience of my food journey, so the reason I have decided to include VB London is because his menu changes seasonally; in a couple of months this menu will be replaced with another one that I will have to go and try.
Set at the end of Lincoln Street, I was impressed before I even walked through the door. Don＊t think you can just walk in 每 you have to ring the doorbell. The staff were well informed, attentive and helpful without being suffocating. The whole team at this restaurant oozes enthusiasm for its surroundings, the service it provides and its food and drink.
The meal began with the revealing of smoke-encased prawns and a smooth and smoky lime soup. The delicate aroma and taste of the smoke really worked well as the prawns just melted in the mouth. The next course was the Amritsari haddock, which was disguised within a bed of rocks so you had to forage for it, which added to the whole experience. The flavour balance was perfect and the squid ink batter really took the conventional Amritsari fish to new heights of modern culinary vision and European execution. Other dishes available included duck korma, chilli cod, Patiala chicken with corn puri, glazed pork chop, turmeric caviar, ruberi... I could go on and on as there were many other dishes on the menu that we tried. The sommelier was very informative and the paired wines complemented each dish with utter perfection. If you are a real foodie and can think out of the box then this is the place to visit to go on a fantastic food journey. The thought process and magical creation used to come up with this menu is simply stunning.
About the author: I'm a food and luxury travel writer, a Masterchef UK contestant, recipe blogger and private chef. Food is in my soul and cooking is my passion. You can follow Sukhi on his blog and or on his Instagram page.
Lead image collage, header image: Sukhi Singh/Instagram.
As told to Tanya Sirohi.