Kumartuli 每 Kolkata＊s Potter Town

The name Kumartuli comes from the term kumhar, which translates into potter. Kumartuli, located in North Kolkata, is the potter＊s abode who are known to create the Durga idols, known for its mesmerising and intricate detailing.

Who are these Potters?

To know the whereabouts of these Potters, we have to go back in the pages of history. The town of Kumartuli has its origins from the potters of Krishnanagar, a city in West Bengal＊s Nadia district.

During the reign of Maharaja Krishna Chandra in Nadia, idol worship dominated, and potters were called from Dhaka. Soon, the potters who used to migrate started to settle in Krishnanagar in a settlement called Ghurni.

They were generationally trained in idol-making and used to carve out Durga idols for the Puja. Initially, only zamindars were responsible for organising Durga Puja. However, the prominence of localised Puja grew.

Puja Under the British Regime

1757＊s Battle of Plassey resulted in Siraj-ud-Daula＊s defeat by Lord Clive. To commemorate the victory, Clive wanted to pay respect to God. However, Kolkata＊s only church St. Anne was demolished. Clive was thus suggested by one of his well-wishers to pay the offerings to the local deity Durga. Therefore, in the following aswin month, as per the Hindu calendar, Durga Puja was organised. Even to this day, that Puja is called Company Puja.

This became an annual tradition for which the potters migrated from Krishnanagar to Northern Kolkata and soon started to settle there.

Settlement of Kumartuli, Photo by Ishita Roy

Under British rule, separate colonies were allotted to the East Indian Company＊s workmen, and the names of the colonies reflected the kind of work. For instance, Suriparah was a name given for the settlement of winemakers, Collotullah was given to people who worked with oil, and Kumartuli was known for the settlers of potters.

Community of Kumartuli

Kumartuli is dominated by the Pal community, who have, inherited the art of idol-making for generations. Ramesh Chandra Pal, one of the earliest idol makers, also hails from Kumartuli and is known for his Durga idols.

He started his journey by creating idols of Lord Krishna. Soon, he worked at people＊s studios and got his hands deeper into skillful idol-making. He started producing Goddess Kali＊s and Durga＊s idols. Today, his studio at Sovabazar hoards his creations and the history of Kumartuli＊s idol makers.

Kumartuli Today

Clay and Hay kept for Idol-making in the lanes of Kumartuli, Photo by Ishita Roy

Kumartuli today is a settlement with maze-like lanes and lanes with idol-makers and their workshops in line. The lanes of Kumartuli smell of the soothing water-soaked clay, the way it smells right after the rain. As humble as the lanes of Kumartuli are, the idol-makers have the least time to talk as they are always busy and overbooked, especially during the Puja season.

Biswajit Pal painting the Durga Idol at Kashmere Gate, Photo by Anshuman Bajpai

Biswajit Pal, an idol-maker whose lineage also traces from Krishnanagar, travels to Delhi during every Puja season to make the Durga idol for Delhi＊s oldest Durga Puja at Kashmere Gate. He shares that he has learned the skills from his father and plans to pass them on to the next generations.

Hay Models in Kumaltuli before the Idol is covered by clay, Photo by Ishita Roy

※Hay is used to form the basic shape of the idol. Then it is covered with two clay layers before being painted,§ shares Pal.

Off-Season at Kumartuli

Bholanath Das working on a commissioned idol, Photo by Ishita Roy

Even when it is not the Durga Puja season, you can always find idols at a different stage of the competition in Kumartuli. Bholanath Das, another idol-maker of Kumartuli, shares that art always flourishes in the lanes of Kumartuli. ※We make commissioned idols of people or work on other local deities. There is always a Puja in Kolkata,§ shares Das.

Idols at different stages of its competition in Kumartuli＊s lane, Photo by Ishita Roy

With the rise of event planners who have become the middlemen for the big Puja, the economy of Kumartuli has been affected, shared Das. Despite this, the artists of Kumartuli, however, continue to remain in high demand. While the lanes of Kumartuli remind of a certain nostalgia, the cold atmosphere from the wet clay also soothes you against Kolkata＊s scorching sun.